10 Tips for Visiting or Moving to Oaxaca, Mexico
This post is aimed at foreigners planning a short- or long-term stay in Oaxaca de Juarez. We have generated a list of ten practical tips you may find helpful in daily life. We do not have experience with the Temporary Residency permits, because we utilized the 6-month U.S. citizen tourist visa, so we can't give advice on that.
First, before traveling or moving to any new country or community, you should be asking yourself: Why do I want to do this, and how will my presence as an outsider/newcomer be received by the locals? Can I commit to being a responsible traveler and immerse myself in their culture without expecting them to adapt to me? If the answer to any of these questions is "I don't know," or "No", then please reconsider your trip. If you are curious to understand more about ethical travel, I recommend this book as a starting point: "Beyond Guilt Trips: Mindful Travel in an Unequal World," by Anu Taranath. It provides a great perspective on international travel, prompts you to become more self-aware of how you move around the world and how concepts of power and privilege impact tourism and world travel.
Ok, now onto the more specific tips:
Learn Spanish
English and other languages are not commonly spoken by locals; at least not fluently. If you want to be independent and earn the respect of locals, you need to make an attempt to speak and understand the language. My husband and I did not have working knowledge of the language before moving here, so we starting using a free online app (DuoLingo) about 1 month before our move. When we arrived, we also took Spanish lessons from a private tutor for 6 weeks to accelerate our learning and get a foundational understanding of the local linguistics. Spanish terms and pronunciation are not always the same in Spain vs. Mexico vs. Colombia, for example. So it really helps to learn from a local which phrases to use, or more importantly, not to use! We continue to use DuoLingo daily, but it's really not enough to feel confident in your conversational skills. My advice is to start learning as early as possible- at least 6 months before you travel. There are many tutoring and schooling options, and you can connect with them via expat/local Facebook groups.
Do your research
If you're reading this post, congratulations, you are already doing the right thing!
Join Expat and Local Facebook groups, and search for blogs to get a sense of current topics of concern and ask questions from the experts. You can also find the going rate for property rentals in social media groups.
Use Google Earth or the Google Maps Street View function to see what the streets and neighborhoods look like. While it can't show and tell you everything, it will give you a picture of what to expect, especially if you are checking out neighborhoods and the amenities.
Research the history and culture of Mexico and Oaxaca. There is so much history to be aware of, and you should also be aware of the local politics and current events. You will learn more when you arrive but it's better to be informed in advance.
Oaxaca is a safe city, but you need to use common sense
We feel very safe here, even walking late at night. The only safety issues we occasionally hear about are robberies on the street targeting foreigners or locals. They may come upon you by surprise on a motorbike and grab/demand your phone, or cut open your bag and take your valuables. So just like you would in any city in the world, always:
Be aware of your surroundings. We never feel unsafe walking around the city- although we are always home by 10:30pm. In fact, it feels way safer here than our former stomping grounds of Seattle during the day and night. But it's still a good idea to watch your back and be alert to the people and traffic around you. Oaxaca primarily has one-way streets. If you want to be extra cautious you could try and walk against the traffic at all times, so you won't be surprised by a motorist from behind. If you are alone or out late at night, just take a taxi. You can easily call one using the Didi app.
Consider what valuables you carry with you and where they are. For example, don't travel with lots of cash, or big bags slung across your shoulder. My husband keeps his wallet and phone in his front pockets, and I use a small fanny back across my body or around my waist. We only carry enough cash for the day, 1 credit card each, and never carry our passports. This is a personal preference and may not really be necessary, but we choose not to wear a smart watch or flashy jewelry, either.
Don't engage with strangers asking you for money or help.
This should go without saying, but just in case... Avoid drugs and criminal activity. Most of the tragic stories you see on the news about foreigners being killed, kidnapped, or tortured are because they were somehow involved in these activities. So just don't go there. Just trust your gut instincts. You will adapt and find your safety comfort zone very quickly.
You will need Cash
Many shops and restaurants accept credit cards, but there are still several vendors that are cash only. And it may not be clearly advertised until it comes time to pay. So always carry Pesos with you! For some reason, no one ever seems to have change. So try to carry small denominations like 20, 50, and 100 peso bills. You'll also want to carry coins with you as much as possible. It's common to tip your grocery bagger at the supermarket, and coins are perfect for this (10-15 pesos is acceptable).
Pedestrian Safety is an Issue
You do NOT have the right of way
Drivers are not looking out for you at every intersection. There are not very many traffic lights and intersections don't have stop signs either. Cars are in constant motion, and everyone quickly takes turns passing through intersections on an alternating basis. Drivers will not automatically stop for you if you step into the crosswalk. Take a beat and wait for an opening to safely cross the street. It's better to wait a few extra seconds than risk an accident.
Watch your step on the sidewalks!
The sidewalks are definitely a pedestrian hazard here. They are built in unique ways with unexpected elevation gains/dips and many sections are severely broken up by tree roots. In some places the sidewalk quickly narrows from a wide span to about 8 inches wide, or it just disappears altogether. If you use a baby stroller, a cane or other assistive mobility device, it will be difficult for you to navigate the streets and sidewalks consistently. This city is therefore not very accessible for people who need to use strollers or have mobility challenges.
Example of an uneven/broken section of sidewalk you will commonly encounter
Note the common business hours
Most small businesses including many restaurants are closed on Sundays. Kind of refreshing, right? Saturday business hours are limited, and many shops open late and close early. It varies, but I have the best luck between 12pm-5pm. On the flip side, many businesses stay open late on Monday-Friday. For example, small tiendas and boutiques may be open until 8pm, 9pm, or even later. So, you can usually count on most places to be open from 10am-8pm on weekdays. Larger chain grocery stores are open every day from 7am until 10pm or 11pm.
Don't drink the tap water
Tap water in Oaxaca, like most Mexican cities, is not safe to drink. Do NOT feed your pets the tap water either. You can buy a 5- gallon/19L jug of purified water from one of the trucks that drives around the city daily for about $1-2 US dollars. Or you can install a water purification system for your kitchen sink. While it's nice and convenient, this option is much more expensive. I'm not sure about the initial install costs but I do know that the filters must be changed every 6 months and cost about $300 US dollars each time.
It is perfectly safe to bathe and brush your teeth with the tap water as long as you are not swallowing it.
Water and ice at the mid-to-high-end restaurants are purified. This includes the Aguas Frescas and juices on the menu. The trick to tell if ice is purified or not is: If it looks like it came from a mold, like a cylinder shape, it is safe. If it looks like it was chipped off of a large block and the shapes are jagged and indistinguishable, I would avoid it. When in doubt, order a beer!
Conserve water
There are no major natural water sources near Oaxaca. They rely on reserves from the rainy season, which only lasts a few months. Some rainy seasons do not generate enough water to last through the year, so there are sometimes water shortages in the city water supply. Collect excess water in a bucket while waiting for it to heat up and use it for other cleaning purposes. We use ours for washing dishes or hand-washing laundry.
You may/may not be able to flush your TP...
The plumbing system in Oaxaca is old. Many pipes are not able to process toilet paper so you may not be allowed to flush it. Look for signs in public bathrooms-- they will instruct you whether to put your TP in the trash bin or flush it down the toilet. If renting or buying a property, be sure to ask about the plumbing situation so you know what to do.
Slow down and enjoy life
The pace of life is slower here, and people take their time to appreciate life and each other's company. Food and drinks are made fresh to order, and they are not made in a hurry. There is not a big "To-Go" culture here. Of course, you can order coffee, smoothies, or a meal to go, but you will be encouraged to sit down at a table and wait for it to be prepared. If you feel like popping in to grab a quick coffee or smoothie on your way to an appointment, it's going to take a while to be ready. Likewise, no one is going to rush you out the door after having a sit-down meal. They will assume you want to linger and chat with your party until you flag them down and request the bill. So just slow down, relax, and enjoy the sights and sounds of Oaxaca.
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