Dancing in the Streets
Wedding festivities in Oaxaca are a unique and vibrant experience. The first time we happened upon a wedding procession here; it was a Friday afternoon in October, and we had just left our Spanish lesson at a cafe in the heart of central Oaxaca. We heard the music of horns and drums and as we rounded the corner, we discovered a scene like one I've never seen before. A large group of revelers were processing towards us on the pedestrian avenue near the Santo Domingo Cathedral. Towering above the group of partiers we saw large figurines of a man and woman dressed in a suit and white dress spinning around in circles with their floppy arms whirling away. We also saw a large white fabric ball with multi-colored triangular flags and a black and white banner stating "Nuestra Boda," or Our Wedding. A young man supported the fabric ball on a long wooden dowel attached to his waist with a strap. He spun it around constantly as the wedding party and guests danced their way down the street. Women in traditional colorful skirts spun their way down the street, holding baskets depicting fruit and flowers on top of their heads as they held their basket with one hand and swishing their skirts back and forth with the other hand. These women are called Chinas Oaxaquenas and they have been part of regional celebrations since at least the 1960's. The history of the Chinas is quite interesting. This article from Vogue Mexico and Latin America captures part of their legacy.
Everyone on the street parted ways for the party and watched from the sidewalks, holding up their phones to capture the scene. There were around 75 people in the procession, all dressed up and having a great time. Someone had a bottle of liquor and was pouring shots for the partiers and a few lucky bystanders. Once the procession passed us, we noticed there was another one coming down the street about 1 block behind them. This one had all of the same key elements, but the bride and groom figures looked slightly different (because they try to model them after the actual couple).
Other Parties
In addition to weddings, we've seen many other celebrations in the street, ranging from a huge government labor unions parade to a Quinceanera and a random birthday(?) parade.
Quinceanera (A girl's 15th birthday) parade in the nearby town of Mitla during the holiday festival of lights in December.
One day, walking up a main artery connecting El Centro to outer neighborhoods we also heard music coming from up the street. Familiar by now with celebrations in the street, we weren't that surprised. But to happen on a street with active traffic was unusual. Soon we saw a small band coming towards us in the right lane of the street followed by a group of about 20 young people drinking beers and dancing down the street. It looked like a birthday celebration to us. They did not have hired dancers or figurines. Just a small band to escort them into town. The cars on the street didn't seem to mind- they just drove around the group and everyone carried on their way.
You may not realize this, but it's actually illegal to drink alcohol in public areas in Mexico. However, it seems like when it's a party, with critical mass --and ideally with a permit-- you can drink in the streets.
A Bit of Wedding Controversy
Living here for several months we've come to learn that Oaxaca is a destination wedding city, not just for locals of the state of Oaxaca, but other places in Mexico and beyond. I have also learned that this particular wedding package or experience, is a bit controversial. Some people believe it represents gentrification, or cultural appropriation. I completely agree that it would be inappropriate for myself as a foreigner to be married in this way unless I was marrying someone from Oaxaca. As for the gentrification concern, I don't have the proper lens or depth of information about Mexican culture to analyze that point of view regarding weddings in Oaxaca. However, reflecting on wedding customs in my home country of the USA, we can see that people's tastes and economic abilities evolve over time. When my parents were married in the United States in 1969, they had a Catholic church ceremony followed by cake and coffee in the reception hall. That was it; no dancing, DJs, outdoor venues, extravagant backdrops, fancy food, or destination bachelor/ette parties. Since that time, it's become more acceptable for couples to create their own unique wedding experience in many parts of the world. I believe it's up to individuals and their families to determine if and how they want to incorporate elements of family or cultural tradition in celebrations and life milestones, as long as they do so respectfully.
Conclusion
One thing is for certain: Oaxaqenos certainly know how to party! On holidays you'll hear the loud boom of fireworks all through the night -often at 3am or 5am- and wonder: Are they still awake, or just getting the party started? If a special party or event is about to start, traditionally it will be proceeded by three loud booms over a short period of time. And if you're in Oaxaca on a Friday or Saturday afternoon, any time of year, I encourage you to hang out near the Templo de Santo Domingo Guzman. You'll hear the wedding party before you see it: it'll be impossible to miss!
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